Trying to calibrate my silver bullet but....

[CrossHairSB]

Hi,
I watched the youtube video of how to create a rectangle for print and Cut; when I do & choose "Print + cut cut...the registration marks disappear.
I want to make sure my calibration marks are correct because I need these templates I make to repeat the most accurate each time. Hope this makes sense.
Thank you,
Best,
Ken

[SandyMcC]

Print+Cut Cut means the shape will ONLY cut and will not print. If you want that rectangle to do both, you need to leave it set to Cut.

[CrossHairSB]

But when I set it to Print + Cut Cut... Then it won't print. My workaround is having 2 outer template lines (one for cutting + one for printing.
If I make a 19" x 5" rectangle with registration marks, should the silver bullet "overshoot" the final registration mark by a 1/6th?
I make these templates which have many holes & notches... The best repeatability & accuracy is important.
Thx Sandy,
Best,
Ken

[SandyMcC]

Please note again, what I wrote in my response. If you leave a layer set to "Cut", then it will BOTH print AND cut. Here's a look-up table for you to use:

Cut Line Type.jpg (128.43 KiB) Viewed 614 times

[SandyMcC]

In case you didn't realize it, you do NOT have to choose one of the (Print + Cut) options when doing a Print+Cut project. The layer should be set according to what you want to happen to it. I do a LOT of print+cut projects with layers set to Cut so that they will both print AND cut.

For example, I want to have a colored contour shadow around my imported image. Here's how I would assign the layers:

1.png (47.52 KiB) Viewed 614 times

And when I check my printer's own Print Preview, this is what will actually print:

2.png (36.85 KiB) Viewed 614 times

Don't always trust a You Tube video to be correct. Most of the SCAL videos I've seen have at least one error if not a dozen. In fact, I've simply stopped checking them out because most are riddled with inaccuracies or simply the "long way" to do something.

[SandyMcC]

In case you didn't realize it, you do NOT have to choose one of the (Print + Cut) options when doing a Print+Cut project. The layer should be set according to what you want to happen to it. I do a LOT of print+cut projects with layers set to Cut so that they will both print AND cut.

For example, I want to have a colored contour shadow around my imported image. Here's how I would assign the layers:

1.png

And when I check my printer's own Print Preview, this is what will actually print:

2.png

Don't always trust a You Tube video to be correct. Most of the SCAL videos I've seen have at least one error if not a dozen. In fact, I've simply stopped checking them out because most are riddled with inaccuracies or simply the "long way" to do something.

[CrossHairSB]

Okay thanks Sandy,
I will check this out; the "Cut" option. Didn't know it would allow you to print the object as well...thank you.

I see you have 4 registration marks... Do I have that option? Thought it was just 3. Also... my question on the laser point "overshooting" the last registration mark. Is a "tell-tale" sign of it being calibrated when the laser lands right on top of the registration mark? Or somewhat extremely close? Because mine overshoots it by about a 1/6th and that is the direction of my cuts being off .
Best,
Ken

[SandyMcC]

Every cutter brand and, sometimes, model, will utilize however many registration marks deemed suitable by the engineers who develop the technology to be used. The newest camera-enabled cutters manufactured by Skycut (i.e. Skycuts, UK Cutters, StarCraft SOLOs, Siser models, and more) all use 4 reg marks.... probably because they are auto detected very quickly, thus do not take as much time as optic eyes or the manual setting of a laser dot.

Regarding your red dot not landing right on the reg marks, remember a few things which actually are the reason why triangulation is the best way to get accurate results: the print out maybe slightly askew on the mat, the mat may be slightly askew as loaded into the cutter, and printers so not print the exact correct spacing or size as in the software. And yes... if your cutter isn't properly calibrated that can contribute, as well.

To calibrate the Calibration numbers for your SB, you need to be using a shape that has both horizontal AND vertical cut lines. I've always taught my customers to use arrows. Ignore the diagonal cuts and focus ONLY on the horizontal and vertical lines so that you more accurately determine which (X or Y or both) need adjustment. Also, have two arrows so that you can verify they cut with exactly the same error. If they differ, then look at what's causing THAT to happen - Speed is too high? Blade is cutting into the mat? Pinch wheels are sticky? Etc. Also, keep both facing to the right so that you don't inadvertently put the printout onto the mat upside down. Of course, with the SB that's less likely to happen since there ARE only 3 marks and they're numbered. Also, use copy paper only... you want something that's easy to cut and you won't cry if you have to use 8 sheets of it before your calibration is perfect.

1.png (32.07 KiB) Viewed 593 times

I have detailed tutorials on this method covered in my online KNK Maxx user manual if needed. The Maxx and SB are both rebrands of the Foison cutters and virtually identical. So, that tutorial could be used if needed. Here's the link to that and you'll find it in one of the latter chapters: https://www.iloveknk.com/0um/MaxxAir-wi ... AL4-UM.pdf